
... pretty much sums up my first solo weekend in Brisbane. Above is
South Bank Parkland's riverside beach (with Brisbane's CBD looming in the distance), a remarkable engineering achievement that's roughly 500 metres from my South Brisbane apartment. Didn't partake of its cool waters today. But will soon.
Made a mistake yesterday. Busy morning but not-busy-enough afternoon left too much time to miss Aradhna, who's 1700 kms away in Melbourne tending to loose ends and pondering her next career move. Let me correct that: Aradhna doesn't ponder -- she acts. We stay in touch throughout each day but it's not nearly enough, especially when I'm staring into space conjuring images of her loveliness. Today was action-packed (if you consider 8 am laundry & vacuuming 'action') but yesterday had one clear highlight: Discovering
West End Markets.
West End is one of Brisbane's few bohemian suburbs but after two 2 years in Melbourne -- where bohemia stretches from the CBD like crude oil from a ruptured offshore rig -- I'm spoiled.

So it was cool to discover West End has a hippie-infused Saturday morning market (
right) near the Brisbane River, about a 20-minute walk from my place. Handmade crafts, candles, incense, organic herbs, tie-dyed baby clothes & lots of fresh fruits & veggies brought people of every stripe in droves. A stall dedicated to locally grown mangoes was enough to guarantee my continued patronage. Last year at this time I was in Fiji, where mangoes grow everywhere and villagers sell plates of freshly picked fruit along roadsides for pocket change.
Tom Robbins once described a mango as a "ripe peach doused with kerosene." One taste of the molotov cocktails of sensual fruit flesh I bought yesterday and anyone debating a trip to Australia would be racking up Qantas frequent flyer points faster than you can say "I just had an indecent thought about a Queensland mango!"
Today's early morning domesticity was followed by a walk to the South Bank beach shown at the top of this post. I'd visited it during the week Aradhna & I spent in Brisbane in early 2007 but forgotten its sublime design. It includes an extravagant kids' section that rivals the priciest of water parks. A fire hydrant is the closest most kids in New York City get to a water park.

Followed South Bank's bougainvillea-draped footpaths to the
Goodwill Bridge that crosses the river south of the CBD (
right). Veered right at the bridge's end to Brisbane's
Botanic Gardens, a lush oasis on the CBD's southeast flank that stupefied me in 2007. Queensland was at critical drought stage then -- the state is still benefiting from record rainfalls that fell in 2008, which means the gardens are even greener this time around. The following photos show a lovely shade tree, frangipani flowers & a bamboo grove:



Brisbane is Australia's third largest city but has a paltry CBD. Unlike Melbourne, which salvaged at least some of its gold-rush-financed Victorian architecture, Brisbane's CBD is mostly modern, and therefore largely uninteresting to me. It does have shops, however, and my studio apartment lacks certain amenities.

Queen Street's pedestrian mall (
left) is another Brisbane landmark that impressed Aradhna & I during our previous visit. Brisbane's universities are popular with Asian students so Queen Street was chock-a-block with pretty, light-skinned girls in short shorts, many carrying umbrellas. Map-clutching tourists walked slowly, like wounded prey (I'm not a pickpocket but know easy marks when I see 'em). Packs of dull Aussie teens added nothing but cheap clothes and bad skin to the streetscape.

Drifted to King George Square down Albert Street, where this church (
right} maintains its dignity despite the encroachment of steel & glass heathens. If King George Square conveys anything about that member of the royal family, it's that he was an empty, joyless man. Hate to come off like a Melbourne crank but its
Federation Square overcomes questionable aesthetics with a public space that's always buzzing with life.

On a sun-kissed Sunday afternoon Brisbane's old
Town Hall (
left) overlooked a people-less public space. Maybe it's a matter of population: Melbourne has nearly 4 million inhabitants, Brisbane nearly 2 million. Melbourne doesn't have world-class beaches within easy driving distance, however. Who'd want to hang around a paved city square when white sand and turquoise surf are less than a quarter-tank away?
When I miss my wife I watch a Bollywood film and miss her even more. Go figure. Today was no different. Caught
Tum Mile at the
Brisbane City Regent on Queen Street. From a dour exterior I entered a relic of Brisbane's gilded age. Tables line a wall of a tiny cafe that could be found in a Melbourne laneway. I grabbed a coffee for the film and went up a flight of stairs. What I saw was astounding: A magnificently restored cinema lobby (
below) that wreaked of 1920s extravagance & optimism.

I downloaded
Tum Mile's soundtrack weeks ago so already associated its music with weekends spent in the company of my pajama-clad wife ... but enjoyed the film nonetheless. Ironic that ads for
2012 are splattered across every Brisbane bus stand, as
Tum Mile uses Mumbai's devastating 2005 floods as a device to bring a long-separated couple back together.
2012 -- Hollywood's latest CGI-instigated manifestation of a 10-year-old boy's classroom doodling -- is disaster porn. In
Tum Mile, the mayhem of a natural disaster doesn't play second fiddle -- it lingers in the hallway, hoping to audition. Unlike many Bollywood romances this one features two believable characters portrayed by young & hungry actors. Well done, but likely to disappoint teenage Indian boys hoping to see chunks of Mumbai washed into the sea.
It was nearly 5 pm when I crossed back over the river via
Victoria Bridge, which connects the CBD's north to South Brisbane. South Bank remained full of parents & kids & couples happily sprawled on footpaths and plots of grass as before. These photos begin with a Victoria Bridge-view of Brisbane's 'eye' (apparently a mandatory accessory for every major Aussie city):
Late afternoon at Streets Beach, from a different angle.
Brisbane CBD from along a riverside footpath in South Bank.
The natural beauty of Brisbane is breathtaking. Now only if I had my equally breathtaking wife with me to enjoy it sange sange ...