South Beach Soiree, pt II

Midway through our stay at the Essex House in South Beach we took the 'official' Art Deco Walking Tour by the Miami Design Preservation League (MDPL), the organisation responsible for saving a substantial chunk of Miami's Art Deco structures from wrecking balls and developers in the '70s and '80s. Their welcome center was around the corner from our hotel at 10th and Ocean Drive, situated on the other side of Miami Beach's Art Deco lifeguard station (above).

The tour was led by a ballsy Brit named Paula (right) who filled our 2-hour stroll through the Art Deco District with war stories from MDPL's early days, an introduction to Art Deco design, and a barrage of anecdotes about the buildings we stopped to admire. Paula's high-tea-at-the-BBC accent gave her expertise an unexpected gravitas amid tanned, shirtless joggers and palm trees rustling in a morning breeze. Our first stop was the Davis Hotel (shown behind her) two blocks west of Ocean Drive on Washington Ave. The Davis was built in 1941 and designed by one of Miami's most influential -- and prolific -- architects, Henry Hohauser.

Lobby of the Astor Hotel, designed by architect T. Hunter Henderson in 1936 and refurbished in 1997 and 2002.

One of many pieces of Art Deco saved and preserved at the Wolfsonian FIU Museum on Washington Ave. A window grille, it was once part of a cinema lobby in Norristown, Pennslyvania.

The tour included our 1938 hotel, which was one of Hohauser's most famous creations. Like every other Art Deco hotel it fell into disrepair but has been restored to its past glory, as you can see by my ingenious collage.

The Congress Hotel on Ocean Drive, another Hohauser design that today incorporates four individual buildings.

Paula also pointed out other types of architecture that were once common in Miami Beach, such as this Mediterranean Revival mansion along Ocean Drive.

The Hotel Victor, built in 1937 by the other big name in Miami's Art Deco history, L. Murray Dixon. It reopened in 2005.

Inside the lobby of the Hotel Victor. The mural was created by Earl LaPan, who did a similarly Everglades-themed mural for the lobby of the Essex House (below). 

Both murals went untouched for 50 years during Miami Beach's dark days. LaPan was called upon to help in their restorations.

The infamous 1930 Spanish-style Casa Casaurina, once the home of Italian fashion designer Gianni Versace, who was shot to death in 1997 on the steps. His killer committed suicide days later on a houseboat in Miami Beach.

Rennu and Aradhna listen to Paula on Ocean Drive.

Paula told us the very first episode of 'Miami Vice' -- which went on to use countless Art Deco buildings as backdrops -- began with Crockett waiting for Tubbs in front of the Carlyle Hotel, which was built in 1939. It also featured prominently in 'The Birdcage'.

Our final stop was the Cardoza Hotel, another famous Hohauser creation, built in 1939. It, along with the Carlyle, were the first buildings saved by MDPL. It's currently owned by Gloria Estefan and was featured in 'There's Something About Mary'.

Aradhna wanted a sidewalk table at News Cafe on Ocean Drive ... and she got it. The place is known as Versace's local newstand, but she liked it for the mojitos.

Michael and Rennu joined us at News Cafe for lunch and Michael walked away with a tropical souvenir.

Ocean Drive's a non-stop parade of hot rods and surgically enhanced men and women.

Rennu and Aradhna practice their TV weather presenter poses.

Just another Sunday afternoon at the Clevelander Hotel.

Another first for Aradhna: 'The Nutcracker', performed by the Arts Ballet Theatre of Florida at the Jackie Gleason Theatre, a short taxi ride from our hotel. An exceptionally well-dressed Michael insisted on being photographed with ballet performers.

After a day on the beach surrounded by mostly nude women, a beautiful walk at dusk through Lummus Park seemed downright geriatric.

While waiting on the Essex House's verendah, I was kindly brought these two frosty cold Happy Hour beers. Perfect tonics on a warm, muggy night.

Yeah, believe me ... I know how undeserving I am to be between two such lovely women. My friend Janice, who'd I not seen since 2002 and who lives in South Florida, braved rush hour traffic and joined me for dinner in South Beach.

We enjoyed dinner at a Haitian restaurant called Tap Tap. The scenery beat the food ... how could it not, with magnificent murals like this gracing the walls?

Not every Art Deco hotel in South Beach has been refurbished. The Fairwind Hotel (formerly called the Fairmont, as shown left), sits across from the Essex House on Collins Ave.

On the way to the airport. Next stop, New Orleans. Woo-hoo!